It doesn’t take long to make the trip up over the Mediterranean to Athens from Cairo.
It’s close enough that it’s like flying from Auckland to Christchurch (in New Zealand), for the weekend.
Somewhere along the line in my Egypt life, I realised I could catch a 4.30PM flight out of Cairo after work (allowing for carry on luggage only and smooth Uber to the airport for the narrowest of departure scenario’s … no stress) and be in Athens for the weekend; coming back to Cairo ready for work the next day and feel as if I had been immersed in a totally different world.
Thats because I was.
I think what I love the most about Athens is the access to trails, trees and serenity.
I know it well. And I crave it.
My resolve for this coming year though is to also adopt this same approach, to Turkije - with a flight over the Antalya being even shorter than to Athens.
I’m in.
As with any new place though it takes a while to get oriented. In Athens I can metro and bus to where I need to go - in Antalya I will no doubt need a car to access the coast and mountain trails.
But that’s all for a future story.
Greece had me captivated right from when I was a child.
The magnificent Acropolis - the centre-piece of Athens.
I can enjoy a weekend in Athens, packed full of a little bit of everything, and come back to Cairo feeling refreshed and as if I have been away for a month.
My preferred accommodation close to everything is Safestay Monastiraki - a mere 200m walk from Monastiraki metro station and famed square of the same name.
Safestay is always welcoming and accommodating - they also offer storage options for bags with a locker system if you have stayed there and need storage after checking out, OR you can store bags for a slightly higher fee if you haven’t stayed there.
This is a super handy option if you are flying later that day and do not wish to carry bags around town.
The Monastiraki area is a central point for downtown, the Acropolis and other historical sites plus the weekend market area.
Photo of Monastiraki Square by Andrea Leopardi on Unsplash
Athens is crammed FULL of historical sites that are well preserved and easily accessible.
I studied classics at high schools and immersed myself in the various wars, tragedies and triumphs of Greek history as told through broken vases which pieced together their lives, and the scattered ruin sites which littered the countryside.
Greece is diverse.
It is home to islands, mountains, beaches, valleys, canyons, rivers, lakes, and history; so … much … history.
It is civilised - truly civilised - it is one place where their history seems to have been a foundation upon which to springboard forward rather than tumble into disrepair, as I feel Egypt has.
Even the cats know something is up with this special place.
One cannot go to Athens without noticing its commitment to caring for its feline population. Not unlike Istanbul in how it honours the job of the humble but haughty street cat, Athenians create small cat hotels to accommodate the furry inhabitants.
Cats are cared for, fed, spoken to, loved and generally revered in this ancient city, adding a layer of endearment, and for me another reason to love it even more.
From the metro station you can take a direct train to the airport (about 40 mins) and also access Piraeus, from where I catch a ferry over to Aegina (the closest island to Athens).
Half a day on Aegina is like a mini-getaway within a mini getaway - a world within a world.
Stunning Aegina - a mere stones throw away from Piraeus in Athens.
I wander the streets, pop into artisan pottery stores, sample the famous pistachio creations, eat a freshly caught fish meal and photograph the old narrow streets with colourful buildings. The ferry is 45 minutes and costs around eight euro each way, and is a truly wonderful scenic sojourn.
Athens downtown area is walking-friendly, with Plaka and other nearby neighbourhoods being full of amazing eateries, quaint tourist shops, artisan jewellers (check out the whimsical work of Alex Papahatzis), deli’s, clothing op-shops, antique stores, cool coffee joints (check out Anana Coffee & Food); whilst the shopping streets of Ermou Street, Kolonaki and Voukourestiou Streets, have all the big name brands within easy reach of each other if retail is your preferred therapy.
Lazy afternoon afternoon drinks can easily turn into early evening dinners in the many cafes that line the streets of Athens. It is a wonderful way to watch the world go by.
No pressure.
It is also a very art-focused city, with many stores dedicated to art supplies, leather goods, pottery and other hand-made delights. Depending on which way you look at it, even the graffiti plastered on many of the cities walls, are intricately beautiful and add character and juxtapose against the ever-present Acropolis as a constant reminder of Athens past.
The Acropolis area is fantastic for spending time in - there is a vast park-like area where you can engage in some climbing on a local crag; you can run, walk, or just sit and enjoy the viewpoint out to the Aegean Sea or across to Mt Olympus.
The Acropolis itself becomes incredibly busy during the summer months, with queues beginning to build at the entry gates as early as 7.00 in the morning. You can purchase a pass which provides access to six sites, or pay for access to each individual site.
The commanding Parthenon, of the Acropolis in Athens.
Another favourite walk of mine is from downtown up to Lycabettus Hill upon which sits a cute church with an unrivalled view of the city. It is a short but moderately steep walk up to the church and there are also various walking tracks in the surrounding grounds which are great for escaping the streets and getting into some nature.
The image below shows this prominent hump amidst Athens city-scape.
For me personally, I prefer to get into the hilly range of Mount Hymettus, which separates Athens city from Spata, the area where the airport is, for hiking in the Kaisariani forest.
To get there:
From Monastiraki, take the airport metro (or the other train also), to Evangalismo (two stops). Go under the road and walk about 50m to the right to the bus stop and find bus 224. Take the bus to the very last stop (it loops back and repeats the journey every 30 minutes).
From here, walk towards the hills, by going past the cemetery on the path until you see a trail map (its not great by the way!).
Follow the yellow markers for a straight forward route. There are many trails in these hills, with a challenging route going up to the cell phone aerials on top of the ridge of Mount Hymettus, walking along the ridge and down back to meet the main trails (approx three to four hour loop).
This area is scenic, treed, and often full of wandering turtles and hares. The trails are well marked and well maintained. There are surprise churches, cafes and ruins tucked away into the area, making for the ideal playground.
It’s a great place for runners, mountain bikers, hikers and sight-seers alike, or people just wanting a beautiful area to put down a picnic rug and soak up the sun.
It is not uncommon to see tortoises lugging themselves around laboriously and snakes taking refuge under shaded rocky areas, as well as industrious stray cats who have made the ruins their home and no doubt feast off lizards and rubbish bins.
Athens really is the perfect city for a weekend getaway if you are fortunate enough to live a short flight away.
If part of a longer adventure, it is a worthy stopping point from which to branch out further afield and to explore what Greece has to offer.
Athens remains a beacon of knowledge and democracy, home to civilizers like Socrates, who ignited the pursuit of wisdom and ethical thought. This remarkable city is not just a place but a legacy, reminding us of the enduring power of ideas that continue to inspire our quest for understanding.
Athens invites us to honour its past while carrying its torch into the future.
Tips for Athens:
The International airport is some 50km from Athens city centre requiring a train, bus, taxi or car to reach the city.
The metro station is attached to the airport by an airbridge (just follow the signs once in the airport arrivals area); there is a ticket office in the adjoined building.
Metro tickets to the city are nine euro one way or you can purchase a five day ticket for 16 Euro. This pass can also be used on buses.
Be aware of pick-pockets around Monastiraki Square and Plaka areas in the high tourist season.
Be very aware of pick-pockets on the metro during busy times.
You can purchase a one-pass for the major historical sites.
To travel by ferry to one of the closer islands or outlying islands to Athens, you can book online or buy direct from a ticket office in Piraeus. I prefer to buy in Piraeus as then you can get the correct directions for the correct ferry (there are many!).
You can fly to some of the larger islands from Athens such as Rhodes, Santorini, Crete, Mykonos, Corfu.
Try to famous almond cookie - the kourabiedes! Its a well-known treat at Christmas time but is available all year round from some bakeries. Amazing.
You cannot go to Athens without trying moussaka or spanakopita! Do both!
Greece has GREAT wine. Try some with olives. An incredible partnership!
