A resounding round of applause broke out in the cabin when the wheels of our small aircraft touched down on the tarmac at Tetouan airport.

The roller coaster landing, I came to realise ten days later, was a result of Tetouan’s location on the edge of the African continent near the Gibraltar Straits, a mere stones throw away from Spain, and often resulted in flights being diverted to the larger city of Tangier some 60 km away.

The Rif Mountains rising opposite the coastal city of Tetouan, Morocco

I hailed a taxi (10 Euro - cheaper ‘blue’ taxi’s can be caught 300m from the airport fro half the price),

and made my way to Riad Soul of Tetouan - where I would be spending the next three nights.

The Medina in Tetouan was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Centre in 1985, and is accessed through several gates (Babs). It is arguably one of the best preserved examples of a Medina, in Morocco, being largely untouched by outside influences. Gracing the old town above on a hill, is the Kasbah, which is currently under reconstruction - a mini Alhambra, with its clear Andalusian influence. When complete, this will add a huge tourism drawcard to this more authentic Moroccan city.

I was met by the host of the Riad

outside the Medina and I followed his quick pace through narrow, cobbled, vibrant alleys as he showed me the way. I was thankful for his commitment to meeting and greeting guests, as there was no way I would ever have found the Riad - Google maps being redundant in these narrow paved ways.

We arrived at a large imposing old solid wooden door, and I stepped into a vibrant, tiled, colourful world within a world - and oddly, previously owned by a New Zealand woman - vestiges of her influence found in a small collection of Maori artworks gracing the walls.

The gorgeous world of Riad Soul of Tetouan - like stepping into an art installation!

Tetouan would for me, be my ‘warm-up’ for an eight-day stay in the heart of the Rif Mountains, and I was seeking hiking trails almost as soon as I emptied my bags into the wardrobe of my room.

To find the trails, you must head down towards the river, cross a bridge and then head towards the hills.

Simple really!

A quick search on AllTrails did not reveal much, and rather it was simpler and quicker to seek access on foot and to simply …

walk.

Looking back up towards Teouan Medina with the Kasbah on the hill.

And walk I did.

I followed my nose passed the bus station and over a bridge, then wound my way uphill following what appeared to be a reasonably busy road.

After around two km’s of this I came to a noticeable trail access which followed a small creek up hill into a forested area.

I had found access!

I noticed the feeling that being in nature gives me, the second I stepped into the shade of the trees and heard the sound of water flowing as I slowly made my way up the narrow valley, with no real idea of where I was going.

Eventually I picked up a wide dirt road, from which numerous trails branched.

The donkey of a man who offered hiking ‘advice’.

A man (who seemingly appeared from nowhere with his donkey) gestured for me (in his tweed pants and formal blazer, complete with hat), to go a particular way, but I opted for a trail which took me around and up to a rocky view point, providing me with fantastic views over the city and out to the ocean beyond.

I wondered how far that man wandered in his get-up, especially as later I saw him furiously sawing wood and loading his donkey with the cuts.

Moroccan work wear?

Great views of Tetouan and the ocean beyond.

Over the course of the next two days, I spent a lot of time in these mountains, and also walked a complete circuit over unmarked valleys, streams, spurs and ridges, passing sheep and their shepherds and being the recipient of long hard stares, the bared teeth of a few guard dogs and the snorts of donkeys parked like cars in a garage in the middle of nowhere.

From Tetouan I was headed south to the heart of the Rif Mountains, to base myself for eight days in the quaint village of Chefchaouen.

This picturesque hillside town is well-known for its blue-painted old houses inside the old Medina, which dates back to early Jewish settlers who painted their homes the colour of the sky to remind them of their homeland. To get to Chefchaouen, you can take a bus from the bus stop in Tetouan which has four departures daily at a cost of around 25 Euros, or as I did, you can hire a car for 25 Euros a day (I went in Eid - March/April).

I hired from 500 Cars Rent and was super happy with the car (a Clio - manual diesel and very economical), and the attentive service from Mohamed, who made sure I was very happy before I left and when I arrived back to catch my flight to Cairo.

Could I have done without the car? Yes, sure.

However, it gave me a lot of freedom to explore places such as Asailah, and to visit Akchour on my terms.

That said, there are ‘grand taxis’ that depart several times a day from Chefchaouen to Akchour, and return at the end of the day. These are cheap however you do not always know when they will leave, or if they will even arrive at all! I heard a mixture of good and bad stories and did not wish to be stranded in the national park without a way back. In hindsight, I think given the friendly nature of the locals, someone would have made sure I got back to Chefchaouen ok!

Below: Scenes from Asailah

When I pulled off the main highway and drove up to Chefchaouen for the first time, I felt as if I had arrived in the middle of someone’s instagram reel.

I was met by Antonio, who showed me to the riad where I would stay for the next eight days.

Again, as in Tetouan, I entered through a humble old wooden door to the riad Dar Antonio; a riot of colour, quirkiness and vibrance.

The attention to detail in Morocco is out of this world.

As a person who loves colour, and details, I was in my extra extra happy place.

The mountains were just a bonus.

Below: the stunning riad of Dar Antonio.

Chefchaouen could be enough to keep any wandering soul happy for days.

Stunning vibrant carpets line the narrow streets.

Its myriad network of colourful narrow alleyways is home to street vendors selling wares from leather goods, to carpets; bakery items to paint and artworks.

The streets of the village are in themselves a truly visual and photographic feast - with street cats lounging amidst the blue backdrop, making them appear even more elegant and noble, as if they were in themselves, amazing works of art.

Chefchaouen is split into the old town inside the Medina walls and the newer town which is below the Medina.

It was founded in 1471 by the Moulay Ali Ben Rachid, a distant descendant of the Islamic Prophet, Muhammad. The original settlement consisted of just a small fortress, now referred to as Chefchaouen’s Kasbah. The fortress was erected to help defend the area from potential attacks by Portuguese invaders; at the time, Portugal was launching attacks against northern cities and towns in Morocco, so it was understandable that they needed to protect themselves from invaders.

The incredible landscapes of the Rif Mountains near Akchour.

Aside from being immersed in a world of blue, I was in the Rif Mountains to hike.

Chefchaouen is ideally situated for access into numerous trails that are located right outside the town walls. It is possible to access various summits from Chefchaouen including those in Talassemtane National Park such as Jbel Khames, on well formed (although usually not very well-marked) trails.

But if you really want to hike with stunning views, steep valleys and clear blue rivers, the 19km drive to Akchour, is well worth it to access several routes.

From Akchour, a large network of trails spawn from two main trails in the valley -

one that goes to Gods Bridge and the other to Akchour Waterfall.

Both trails begin in the same place then diverge at a bridge which crosses a small dam, with one going up to Gods bridge and the other staying lower along side the river, to a large impressive waterfall.

I had heard many negative things about the waterfall saying it was under-whelming. I was there in spring and it was in full flight even with some snow still on surrounding mountains, the melt was filling the rivers and streams nicely making the waterfall pound into the waterhole below - a drop of some 80 plus meters. Impressive.

There was nothing underwhelming about this drop at all.

The trail to the waterfall was easy - around five plus km one way, suitable for all fitness levels, easy to follow, well maintained and well marked. There were some stream crossings and as it was spring, I did get my feet wet more than once.

To find the trail, cross the bridge at the base of the dam and continue alongside a side stream which feeds into the main river, through a valley. You will walk through various small river-side cafes and eateries, swimming pools, waterfalls and amazing views. Keep going!

The large Akchour Waterfall, is the end of the valley!

Playful Barbary Macaque monkeys leapt boisterously above my head in the surrounding trees as I continued toward the waterfall. Every now and then they would stop and sit - eyeing me with curiosity and no doubt, some suspicion.

Being careful not to get too close, I managed to photograph them in their natural playground.

What a sight.

Mumma and infant give me the royal stare down.

God’s Bridge is a natural land bridge connecting both sides of the very steep valley.

God’s Bridge glows with a luminescent orange caused by the terracotta clay walls.

When the sun catches it, it looks like an inferno is in full force just under the bridge.

The 30m high land bridge makes completing more challenging hikes in the area possible, as well as a loop which will bring trekkers to the start of the waterfall track. Whilst it would be possible to complete both trails in one day, it would make for a long one - especially as the God’s Bridge trail is significantly more difficult than the gentle hike into the waterfall.

To access the God’s Bridge upper trail, do not cross the bridge at the dam, rather, continue up the main river on the true right hand side, and follow the track which begins to climb (steeply in places), above all the cafes below. It is not a long walk to the bridge itself if taking the direct route from the dam, but it is exposed in places so care should be taken for inexperienced hikers.

At the time of hiking (March 2025), the lower track to under God’s bridge, was not open as the river was pounding due to spring snow melt!

After a thigh-burning hike beyond God’s bridge, I would down a fresh squeezed thick pithy orange juice and twice stopped for a magnificent tagine, cooked in front of me on an open cooking system.

Delicious aromatic tagines cooking slowly over flames alongside the Akchour River.

I ate tagine almost daily.

YES PLEASE!

They were cheap, incredibly tasty with complex yet complimentary flavours, and oh so good for you.

My favourite tagine was a chicken, plum and apricot one. I searched for a recipe so that I could make this myself, checked it out with the restaurant chef where I ate evening evening, and was given the thumbs up. If you would like to try cooking a tagine, clearly the tagine itself is a vital piece of cooking equipment. I think it could be possible in a slow cooker, as a ‘next best’ alternative.

For a delicious recipe - click the link below. This recipe comes from My Global Cuisine

Tagine recipe!

Every now and then, while out in the mountains hiking, I would denote a wiff of kif.

The area around Chefchaoun and in the mountains surrounding Akchour, the heady aroma of cannabis can be sniffed on the breeze during the growing season.

But when the plants are long gone, even the faint residue of the plant leaves its distinguishable aroma in the air. I had heard stories of growers guarding their plots jealously, and given that the region is the largest growing area in the world for cannabis, I could see why. Out hiking I would pass groups of men, with their packs of dogs. The men would carry guns; the dogs a menacing glare. Polite hellos would be exchanged and they would ask me where I was going, what I was doing, then proceed to tell me where NOT to go.

I knew why.

Thank goodness it was not growing season, but it did make me curious as to why they opted to grow their kif so high up in the mountains, with access only by foot. It would make for tediously laborious work. I guessed that was why there were so many hiking trails - they were not ‘hiking trails’ for the sheer joy of stretching ones legs; they were essential links between villages; small threads of connection ensuring that the age old traditions of the Rif Mountains were not overcome by tourists in their big busses, and … essential access routes for the kif.

The stunning Cascasde Sur Oued Laou, is not far from the Akchour turn off in the ***Talassamtane National Park***

I would enjoy being in Chefchaoun more than I thought I would.

I spent a lot of time in the mountains directly behind the village - accessing narrow steep valleys behind the Spanish Mosque, also called Bouzaafer Mosque, (a short walk which provides stunning sunset views of Chefchaoun), and also behind Ras el Mar. I discovered on one hike that I could in fact link the valleys which both of these entry points lead to, via a pass.

The hiking was limitless. I did not want to leave.

One afternoon when returning from a hike, I saw an elderly man approaching me walking steadily up the rocky path. He walked with a methodical determination, hands clasped behind his back, his long Djellabah (traditional Northern Morocco outer wear for men) outlining his lean frame. He wore slip-on shoes) and navigated the rocks with agile ease.

I think he had walked this trail before.

I paused to watch him after we had exchanged good mornings, curious as to where he was going, and wondered if he was working with one of the goat herders I had past earlier.

A steep trail leading into the mountains behind Chefchaouen.

Watching him with his rhythmic gait, he bounded up the steep rocky path as if he was a youngster. Every now and then on my way down, I would turn and scan the trail above me to see if I could catch a glimpse of him.

Sure enough I would spot him wandering up nonchalantly as if this was something he did every day He appeared deep in thought and had a sort of spiritual air about him.

I wondered where he was going.

The mountains were steep and unforgiving - did he have a house up there somewhere in the wilds?

I was itching to photograph him, but he kept a watchful eye on me, possibly reading my mind ….

Even after a decent stint marinating myself in the Moroccan culture of Northern Africa, I was feeling somewhat anxious at the thought of having to leave.

I drove out of Chefchaoun through the valleys and back down to the coast to Tetouan to catch my flight out of the country, with a bit of a heavy heart. I passed by women walking their flocks, and also baking bread - the delectable aroma wafting through my car window, which had me stop just to photograph their traditional baking method.

Offering me bread, it took all my strength to refuse (knowing my gluten allergy would thank me), but I paid them the same as a round of bread anyway just for the pleasure of capturing them at work, like dough artists.

TIPS FOR NORTHERN MOROCCO:

Here are 10 tips for traveling to Northern Morocco as a solo older female traveler, focusing on towns like Asilah, Chefchaouen, and Tetouan. I did not spend any tim e in Tangier - but if you arrive and depart from this city, I suggest the following before exploring further:

1. Explore the Medina

Wander through Tangier's vibrant medina, enjoying the narrow alleys, local shops, and the lively Grand Socco square.

2. Visit the Kasbah

Check out the Kasbah for stunning views of the harbor and explore the museum to learn about Tangier's rich history.

3. Caves of Hercules

Take a short trip to the Caves of Hercules, where you can enjoy unique rock formations and scenic views of the Atlantic.

4. Local Cuisine

Savor local dishes at eateries like Restaurant El Morocco, where you can enjoy delicious seafood and traditional Moroccan meals.

5. Cap Spartel Day Trip

Make time for a visit to Cap Spartel, where you can take in breathtaking views of the ocean and the famous lighthouse, perfect for photography.

Beyond Tangier:

1. Research Your Itinerary

Towns to Visit: If you hire a car, start with Asilah (after Tangier) for its beautiful beaches and vibrant art scene, then head to Chefchaouen for its iconic blue streets, and finish in Tetouan, known for its rich history and stunning medina.

2. Car Hire Tips

Choose a Reputable Company: Opt for well-known car rental services. Confirm your booking in advance and ensure you understand the insurance coverage. I used 500 Cars Rent (see above).
Driving Conditions: Roads in northern Morocco are generally good, but be cautious of local driving habits. Always have a GPS or map handy. I used Google Maps with no issues.

3. Stay in Safe Accommodations

Select Accommodations Wisely: Look for good reviews on safety, especially in the medina areas. Guesthouses and riads often provide a more authentic experience.

4. Engage with Locals

Cultural Exchange: Don’t hesitate to interact with locals. Many are friendly and willing to share stories or recommend places. Learning a few phrases in Arabic or French can help.

5. Explore Chefchaouen

Hiking and Photography: The Rif Mountains surrounding Chefchaouen offer fantastic hiking trails. The hike to Ras El Maa waterfall (on the way to the Spanish Mosque) is popular and provides opportunities for stunning photography.

6. Visit Tetouan’s Medina

Cultural Heritage: Tetouan’s UNESCO-listed medina is a must-see. Explore its narrow streets, artisan shops, and historical sites, including the Royal Palace and the ethnographic museum.

7. Enjoy Local Cuisine

Food Recommendations: Try local dishes like tagine and couscous at restaurants in the medinas. In Asilah, visit Café Aftas for seafood, and in Chefchaouen, check out Restaurant Casa Hassan for traditional meals.

8. Stay Active

Outdoor Activities: In addition to hiking, consider exploring the beaches in Asilah. Water sports like kayaking or paddleboarding are great ways to stay fit while enjoying the coast. I went in winter - so not ideal for swimming!

9. Photography Opportunities

Capture the Scenery: The blue streets of Chefchaouen, the coastal views in Asilah, and the intricate architecture in Tetouan provide endless photo opportunities. Early mornings or late afternoons are perfect for softer lighting. Check out the Spanish Mosque in Chefchaouen for sunset.

10. Safety Precautions

Travel Wisely: Northern Morocco is generally safe, but take standard precautions. Keep your belongings secure, avoid poorly lit areas at night, and let someone know your travel plans. Joining local tours can also enhance safety and provide guidance.

Enjoy your adventure in Northern Morocco! The region's beauty and culture are sure to provide a memorable experience.

B l o g