It was Christmas Eve and I was looking for a blonde greek woman.
Miranda.
I had seen her photo from the Trusted Housesitters website and vaguely knew who I was looking for outside the airport in Rhodes.
Efficiently collected and whisked off to the beautiful modern apartment I would be staying in for the next 10 days along with a cacophony of feline friends, Miranda was welcoming and warm.
“You will have Christmas with my family” she announced, and I looked forward to being part of a traditional Greek Christmas day celebration.
Introducing me to her husband George and four ‘indoor’ cats - Antagvia, Mili, Kiko and Gilda, I immediately sensed this was going to be a fun-filled adventure. George and Miranda were off to Portugal - taking a break from their busy lives - he an engineer and she an interior designer; and I was here to care for their extremely precious collection of cats which included approx 18 outdoor or ‘balcony’ cats.
Jeepers; 22 cats.
I briefly wondered if the term “herding cats’, was based on fact.
I had two ‘practice’ nights with the cats before they departed for Portugal on boxing day - with George and Miranda staying with her mother a few kilometres away in Rhodes town.
The indoor cats eyed me with some suspicion, but like any intelligent animal, they quickly realised where their next meal was from, and warmed to me - all apart from Antagvia who kept her distance until it suited her.
The balcony cats all congregated at the glass doors, peering in and noting when their indoor counterparts were fed, taking this as a signal to meow loudly and even scratch at the glass. Two cats in particular - Rodger and his brother - would enjoy some brief sojourns indoors, taking their time to scent on all the furniture, including me, enjoying some hands on contact with belly rubs and ear-scratching.
Miranda and George took their role as guardians of these outdoor cats seriously - vaccinating and neutering them all. Some of the cats had never lived off the balcony, some slept in the large magnolia tree that provided a way up to the balcony and some slept curled up in a bookcase style ‘cat hotel’ that had been constructed for them.
The Greeks take their stray cats seriously - and I also noticed in Athens there was a strong dedication to caring for the felines. In Rhodes there was an obvious devotion to cats as well, as evidenced by the abundance of big healthy well-fed felines laying about in sunny nooks and crannies..
This warmed my heart. Click in below for a closer look at all these puddies.
Rhodes is an island with an incredible amount of history - spanning occupations of several groups of people including the Romans and Turks. The remnants of this history is everywhere, but none is more noteworthy than the old town which is surrounded by a well preserved wall. While the wall itself is about 4 kilometres around, the area within is a substantial, maze-like medieval city with numerous streets and buildings, and also contains what would have once been a moat.
The Old Town is a glowing centre-piece in the heart of Rhodes.
This old town is the stuff that medieval dreams are made of and I spent countless hours deliberately losing myself in the narrow cobbled streets, admiring the high archways spanning the shoulder-width streets, plants finding a way to eek through cracks in the stone and beautiful carved edifices that graced every corner.
Once, only the poor would be found dwelling within these walls - now, only the rich could afford the grandeur of living within ancient castle walls, and it was now a major tourist attraction - littered with expensive wine bars, clothing boutiques and jewellery stores. I was here in winter, and would visit again during the following June - a busy time still at the start of the tourist season, and the difference in sheer numbers of people was over-whelming.
The island of Rhodes stretches northwest to southeast, with Rhodes town at the northern tip of the sunflower seed shaped island. The island itself being the largest one in the group of Greek islands known as the Dodecanese islands. It enjoys close proximity to Türkiye easily reached in about an hour from Rhodes port by ferry.
The two coasts of Rhodes are vastly different in geography - one side boasting golden sandy beaches and impressive rocky cliffs, whilst the other coast was more mountainous and heavily forested. This of course provided Rhodes with an interesting set of microclimates - perfect for wine growing, amongst other things (olive oil for example!).
The island is also surprisingly mountainous, and even though the highest peak is only 1800m, the island is a winding rolling landscape of scenic driving possibilities, numerous challenging hiking trails and a Mecca for road cycling.
Waking on Christmas Day surrounded by three purring sleepy mounds of cats,
I looked forward to the day ahead and briefly wondered if I should have purchased gifts. What do they do in Greece?! I had a bag of chocolate covered dates from Egypt and hoped that would suffice.
Miranda and George came to collect me and we rolled into Miranda’s childhood home where her mother still lived.
Rhodian houses are solid structures, made with heavy wooden interior accents and inbuilt furniture. Miranda told me about her childhood here, discussing various plants, trees and I could sense the many happy memories that only a close-knit family could evoke. I was warmly welcomed by her Greek-only speaking mother, and Miranda’s extended family - sister, brother-in-law, nephews - and we enjoyed a wonderful day of delicious Greek fare, along with my introduction to mastic, and traditional almond cookies, Kourabiedes (these would definitely become an addiction!).
Check out this recipe here for Kourabiedes.
Pure deliciousness. Image Google
Rhodes is dotted with small churches and chapels paying homage to the various prophets recognised in Greek orthodoxy.
Most of these churches are poised atop the tallest hilltops in the region, requiring a leg-burning effort to reach. The rewards are gorgeous old white-washed structures, the interiors of which are usually dimly lit by burning candles - casting an intimate light over the usually ornately painted ceilings and various images hanging on the walls.
One of my favourite chapels to walk to was that of Profitis Elias, located on the east coast near the town of Salakos. There is a hike up to this precariously positioned chapel, which takes in magnificent views across to the Turkish coast, over the undulating agricultural land and forests of the east coast.
Looking out from Profitis Elias
The hike starts steeply from a small car park area then gradually eases off as it zig zags up through light forest firstly to the chapel and then continues up to the ridgeline above the road and a large cafe along with several eery abandoned buildings, which are worth exploring.
Abandoned building on Profitis Elias mountain.
From the ridge you can see across the west coast, the dams of Gadoura and Apolakia and over to Rhodes highest peak - Atavaris, which I also tackled (extremely steep and exposed) in an unprecedented sufferfest to the windy rocky exposed summit.
Just as well THAT hike took me home via Embonas - a village well known for its wine shops!
Find out more about Embonas here.
Another hike I had tried to do in December but was thwarted by ice, was the hike into Jacobs Canyon - a long narrow scar within which the remnants of an ancient stream had carved through the limestone, leaving a natural layer cake of rock walls that provided natural steps through the canyon for several kilometres, forming a loop track by linking with a ridge and decending onto the main road.
This trail was bone dry in June, but required some pretty hair-raising grade three scrambling (verging on actual rock climbing) and in places bolted routes up cliff sides were marked with fixed rope.
Many times I considered my life choices
and pondered the return down the canyon with skepticism - I figured it was better to forge ahead, until the last final incline at the mouth of the canyon, was condensed into a chute no wider then my shoulders, with an ascent angle of over 60 degrees, and covered in slimy moss.
I had several failed attempts at scaling this slick duct and finally opted by hauling myself up a bush covered cliff instead in order to avoid the chute exit, clinging onto prickly shrubs overhanging the drop below. I pulled myself up and over the lip of the canyon walls and found myself in a stunning forested gently yawning valley and could see the trail winding its way upward towards the ridge on which I would descend to close the loop.
A stunning view on the Jacobs Canyon loop awaits before the inal descent to the road.
By far this was the most challenging hike I had done in Greece, but also the most enjoyable, with a solid mix of terrain and views. Even though the hike is only around 7km, it is technical and challenging terrain in places, slowing the pace to around 2km/hr.
I spent around one and a half to two hours navigating the canyon alone.
I would highly recommend the hike in summer when the rocks are dryer and there is less chance of rain making travel up the canyon and scrambling, dangerous - the area is known for falls. I would also recommend wearing soft soled shoes that provide a more flexible grip on the rocks, rather than a sturdy hiking boot or shoe. Stop to take the time to study the routes over the rocks before just walking on - the canyon consists of several kilometres of stepped steep ‘terraces’ (around 15) which require care and sure-footedness; some are almost impassable if not approached carefully. There are yellow dots for the safest route.
Once on the ridge, pay careful attention to the red dots painted on rocks - the trail is extremely easy to lose at this point (much of the paint has worn off or is covered by undergrowth) and requires careful picking through a rocky descent to find a dirt road below which links onto the main road.
Parking is at a layaway on the right, just over a bridge which crosses the canyon entrance to the left some 50m before, on the road to. It is NOT marked, neither is there any information or signage on the trail itself. Check Alltrails here.
Stunning Lindos area
Hiring a car in December and during my return trip in June, enabled me to explore further afield than Rhodes town and the restrictions imposed by the bus routes.
Lindos, on the west coast was one of my favourite locations; sleepy and empty in December when I visited but in June was thronging with tourists revelling in a pulsating nightlife. I preferred the December vibe!
June in Lindos was vibing a party-like atmosphere. I far preferred the quiet December rhythms.
This charming village is an ancient Greek archaeological site with a heritage spanning over 4,000 years. It has seen the rise and fall of various civilisations, including the Minoans, Dorians, Romans, and Ottomans. Notably, the Knights of St. John also left their mark here, occupying the hilltop castle and adding to its rich history. I hiked out to a burial mound on a point beyond Lindos Bay, and up into and around the imposing castle with impressive drop-offs plunging into the jade coloured ocean below.
Pano shot from the hill top castle in Lindos overlooking the stunning bay below. This site is laden with well-preserved ruins.
I considered how impressive the night sky would be above the castle and briefly thought about heading back out for a night shoot.
I also visited Kalamiros - an ancient village on the coast, covering a large acreage with wonderful views across to Türkiye .
What is it about graveyards and ancient villages being built on the best real estate - a view wasted for the dead, but also epic strategic positioning for a heads up on attacks.
This was never more evident than with Monolithos castle - clinging to dramatic cliffs on the lower edge of the island. Anyone who dared scale the sheer cliff walls to attack the inhabitants must have had nerves of steel. These ancient structures were incredible feats of architecture and engineering, mostly only showing deterioration due to the various wars and attacks in which they had stood witness to from neighbouring factions.
For a small island Rhodes packs a lot of punch. It is hot on the cruise ship trail, with hundreds of thousands of tourists each year being deposited on its shores - I witnessed this difference in people volume between December and my second visit in June, when the old town was bulging with summer tourists.
My December visit inhibited my movements a little due to being house-Mum to 22 lovely purring bundles of delightfulness.
Everyday was a routine which involved feeding the four indoor babies and then filling the bellies of all the balcony cats, whilst trying to prevent escapes both inside and out! Roger (a balcony cat) and his brother, loved to come indoors and hang with the indoor family, and I learnt that eventually he was accepted into the inside crew and gave up his outdoor only lifestyle for a mix of the two worlds.
Whilst the two indoor males - Mili and Kiko - were very playful and enjoyed my company and attention, the older regal-like ginger Gilda and moody Antagvia, we more standoffish and required a lot more work to gain my trust. Gilda warmed more as time went by but Antagvia remained very skeptical right to the end, and even attempted to escape outside at one point.
I enjoyed my relaxed evenings on the couch enjoying Netflix, wine and cats. Something I had missed since being in Cairo.
Miranda and George returned eager to see their animals, and I left having made friends - both human and feline, which resulted in the second trip to Rhodes I did in June.
JUNE IN RHODES:
In June I stayed out of Rhodes town in a small village called Soroni in Miranda and George’s
It was a stunning traditional Rhodes dwelling, with a dark timber interior, raised sleeping platforms and a delightful courtyard planted with a shady tree and potted colour.
Neighbourhood cats also caught word that a cat-lover was in town and they frequented the abode, asking politely for food and pats.
An affordable cafe is directly next door and I ate there on several occasions.
Whilst I did plenty of sight-seeing and more ambitious travel this second trip, including hikes, I also did a foray into Butterflies Valley - a picturesque narrow valley absolutely chock-full of colourful butterflies, where waterfalls flow and trails meander along a small stream.
I researched nearby islands with the intention of visiting one, and also considered crossing over to Türkiye , but ended up ferrying across to the incredibly pretty island of Symi.
This extremely gorgeous little island brushes the southern Turkish coast and is home to several picturesque little villages which swell in the summer with sunned sea-seekers. It was early June and although it felt as if things were beginning to amp up, there was still a relaxed vibe which I really enjoyed. I stayed in the main port town of Ano in a lovely accommodation about one km walk from the ferry terminal (One hour from Rhodes).
Symi did not fail to delight.
With colourful houses adorning the hills surrounding the bay, it was a photographers dream to wander the streets and surrounding bays. In Symi I hiked, swam, ate and photographed for three days; breathing in the incredible atmosphere.
I came to learn that the well known Biritish TV personality Michael Mosely died on Symi just a few days before I had arrived. I walked down the trail upon which he was found - the indentation of his body still fresh in the dirt.
People were still discussing the death and police were still doing their investigations.
It was both sad and sobering.
To think he died in full view of a busy cafe and beach spot a few hundred feet away is mind blowing.
It’s amazing that being in these types of locations really does serve as creative motivation. I couldn’t help but feel excited about looking through my lens.
The colours, smells, architecture, food, wine, olives, ocean - just everything - even the old rustic dilapidated houses were beautiful in their disrepair.
I also know there will be a third! I love the place.
Sailing back to Rhodes from Symi with the Turkish coastline in the background.
Tips for holidaying in Rhodes :
You can fly to Rhodes International Airport from Athens in an hour flight.
Car rentals are conveniently placed in both the airport and in the town centre. Rental cars are usually small to accommodate the narrow streets.
The island is easy to drive around, but beware of very narrow streets when driving through small villages
Try to avoid peak tourist times if wishing to escapes hoards of non-Greek nationals. Avoid June-September.
The climate is temperate all year round - chilly in winter and hot in summer. It is dry.
There is a bus system running from the centre of Rhodes town - east and west routes around the island. Be sure to check for the correct bus station as they leave from different locations on the same street.
Rhodes old town is fortified and is free to enter.
Many of the historical locations close during Christian holidays such as Christmas and Easter, and around New Year.
Many of the small chapels do not allow photography inside.
There are many amazing hiking trails in Rhodes. These are largely unmarked so download a good app such as Alltrails or Wikiloc to locate the trail heads.
Small rural villages by far are the best for spontaneous meal stops.
Not all beaches are free - many you have to pay to go onto the beach and you hire a seat and umbrella once there.
The island is safe, but do be aware during peak tourism times in the old town for pick-pockets.
Rhodes is a port town and large cruise ships dock during the summer months which increases the numbers of people wandering the old town. Be mindful of extra wait times for historical sites, cafes and access to car parking spaces.
Wandering the old town is a great way to pass time especially if into photography. Around every corner is a scene worth capturing, a cat or a cafe. It’s delightful.
Some of the best locations to visit are on the coast such as castles and forts.
Inland houses more wineries and more mountainous terrain.
The port in Rhodes is where you can take a ferry to surrounding islands and Türkiye.
A stormy night on the west coast of Rhodes.